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Santorini : On the Edge of a Volcano
The Island of Santorini, Greece.
By Claire
The world famous volcanic island of Santorini is the southern most island of the Cycladic group in the Aegean Sea.
How to Get There:
By plane : Santorini can be reached from most international airports via Athens. The flying time from Athens to Santorini is approximately 40 minutes.
Nearly all international scheduled flights arriving in Athens allow adequate time for making the connecting flight to Santorini.
I flew direct from the UK. Numerous charter flights from different European Cities fly directly to the island during the summer period. During the same period Santorini is also connected with flights to and from Thessaloniki.
By ferry boat : Another way to reach the island is by a regular ferry boat service from the port of Piraeus, Thessaloniki or Crete and almost all the Cycladic islands. The boat trip takes approximately 8 - 13 hours depending on the ferry and the ports of call.
Daily high speed boats are also available during the summer period leaving from the port of Piraeus and from numerous other Cycladic islands and Crete. The trip takes about 4 - 5 hours.
About this Location:
The present-day crescent shape of the island is a consequence of volcanic activity. The island itself owes its very existence to the volcano. You are basically on a volcano that has erupted, destroyed itself and is now beginning to regenerate.
The last huge eruption dates back 3,600 years, to the late bronze age. Thirty million cubic meters of magma in the form of pumice and ash were blown to a height of up to 36 kilometers above the island. Pumice deposits, dozens of meters thick, buried one of the most prosperous settlements of that period. All around you today you see evidence of this explosion and the scale of it defies the imagination. I can guarantee you will return from this trip marvelling at the power of the earth. It makes you feel small and fragile.
The volcano does not sleep, it is just resting. The most recent eruption occurred in 1950, building up two small islands within the caldera; Palea and Nea Kameni here you'll find hot fumaroles, new mineral deposits, and gushing, warm, multi-coloured water.
Weather Conditions:
The climate in Santorini is typical of the Mediterranean climate with extended periods of sunshine throughout most of the year, hot and dry summers and mild and rainy winters. Long periods of consecutive rainy days are uncommon in Santorini, even during the winter, and the sky does not remain cloudy for more than a few days in a row.
During the warm and dry season the weather is usually stable, the sun is bright and there is generally no rainfall. A sweater/jacket is advised, especially in April and October, as evenings often bring cooler temperatures.
I was there is August and it was HOT. As a photographer this isn't the time I'd recommend as the heat brings haze and rarely do you get crystal clear views across the caldera.
Why Go?
I flew over this island many years ago and wanted to visit. From the air it looked a paradise and I was intrigued by it’s volcanic history.
It has been said that the sunsets in Santorini are the best in the world. When I was there they seemed guaranteed each night but photographically were hard to capture due to the cloudless skies. You really need to be in a boat, looking back on the island, to get a good shot or take a trip towards the SW corner and find a way to look east away from the setting sun.
From the Caldera I'm sure breathtaking views of the volcano and neighbouring islands can be found in the right season - I'd guess February would be great.
Everywhere one sees small domed churches .....
and remnants of days gone by..
and small details to train your camera on.....
At the rim of the Caldera are 85 metre (300 feet) high cliffs that many of the island's villages perch on top of, offering a sea view. The cliff is the wall of the submerged volcano crater caused by the eruption.
Highlights of my trip:
Wandering through the villages and Fira (the main town) and Oia exploring side streets and discovering "Santorini blue", a unique unforgettable blue that is found in the sky and the architecture. The buildings on the island are stark and beautiful, with bright white walls contrasting with the deep blue sea and sky.
A boat trip to Thirasia with the sun setting on the return trip and the cliffs under Oia turning red.
Visiting the Faros lighthouse at sunset.
Lowlights:
The heat and haze. Struggling to get a sunset shot as the sun is just too hot and without clouds there is nothing to add interest (but it is glorious to watch).
When to Go:
Off peak and for photography any time except summer
Where to Stay:
Avoid the package travel apartments on the eastern side, great for sun seeking families who want beaches but all the photographic action is found round the rim of the caldera.
Santorini offers a wide variety of quality hotels, unique hotel apartments and elegant suite hotels. There are also budget rooms. Even in high summer I saw "for rent signs" so just turning up and getting a taxi to take you to Fira or Oia is viable. In the summer I'd want air conditioning but in the cooler seasons I'd be happy with a room with a view.
Equipment for this trip:
Lenses that are both wide and long. A tripod for the sunset shots. Grads are essential if you get a good sky and careful metering with all those white buildings. I tried a polariser but the effect was too intense.
Research:
When The Light is good:
Good light for distance shots across the caldera means haze free days with some clouds in the sky. I didn't have any during my week in August. The light however was still bright and looking directly away from the sun gave deep blue skies that enhance shots with the white buildings.
I'd love to be here during or after a thunderstorm.
When the Light is Bad:
Concentrate on small details that shout "Greece" and explore the villages. Visit Akrotiri one of the most important prehistoric settlements of the Aegean.
My husband is a real foodie and he says the food here was the best he'd had in Greece.
A ride down the cliffs on a mule.
Will I Go Again?
Yes, but off-season to see what is possible. I have looked at many books and websites and there is little that is “different”. I think there has to be a photographic side to this island that is more than I have seen given unusual light. It is a small island though and due to the nature of the caldera you are restricted in your viewpoint. I wonder if staying on Thirasia might be the answer, the link above says it is not possible to use the hotel any more but I'm sure a bed can be found somewhere. You would certainly get a very “Greek” experience and a more unique perspective on the landscape and a more real life experience.
Recommended reading:
The A to Z Guide to Santorini.
Thera or Santorini - Born from Tephra.
UK Insurance. PTR recommendations:
Travel insurance and camera insurance.
